Sunday, August 1, 2010

From exploring caves and castles, to dancing the night away in the capital’s famous clubs, Giselle Whiteaker gets a taste of life in Lebanon
I didn’t know what to expect from Lebanon, unable to reconcile two conflicting images in my head - one of a war torn city and the other an impeccably groomed, well dressed and occasionally surgically enhanced population. So I boarded the Jazeera Airways flight, Lonely Planet guide in hand, ready to educate myself on the trip to the country’s capital.  
On landing, the older couple who shoved past me in a hurry to disembark stepped into the gangway and immediately lit cigarettes underneath the ‘No Smoking’ signs; clearly there for decoration.
Welcome to Beirut.
Outside the airport, my travel buddies met me in a lightweight Kia Picanto ironically christened ‘The Beast’ and our Lebanese designated driver dodged and weaved through the traffic chaos.
If you think Dubai traffic is bad, try Beirut. There are no lane markers and if you indicate, it simply lets others know where you want to go so they can block you. It is more productive to be unpredictable and ignore the cars heading towards you.  
Our first stop was at the mouth of the river Nahr Al-Kalb and then on to the massive cave complex of Jeita Grotto, with stalactite and stalagmite formations worthy of a Disney movie.
There is a campaign for Jeita Grotto to be one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature, and although it was impressive, we decided not to vote without seeing all the entrants.  
With nearly 300 sites nominated, that could take some time.  
Religious statues towering on the top of hillsides isn’t unique to the city of Rio. Our next stop - the hillside town of Harissa - is also well-known for its statue of the Virgin of Lebanon.
The most interesting route to the icon is via a cable car that dangles precariously between apartment blocks on its vertigo-inducing path.
We were pleased to score a red gondola, which we imagined would be easily spotted should the cable car accidently plummet to the ground.
From the top the views were fantastic, as were the electric blue Heidi-style capes lent to cover the bare shoulders of my friends.  
Packing as much as possible into one day, the next stop was Byblos (Jbail).
We didn’t make the archaeological sites, instead wandering around the carefully restored souk in the medieval city centre. The narrow cobbled streets packed with cafes, souvenir shops and antique stores, are complemented by jazz music wafting from hole in the wall bars.
Back in Beirut, having squeezed into clubbing outfits, we boycotted the big name nightspots and headed to ‘The Basement’ - a funky, predominantly red, underground indie club, featuring a central chandelier, a VIP loft and low tables with built-in ice buckets.
After a long day, two of us were beyond moving and left the others to finish the night, or early morning, depending how you look at it.  
Day two, and while taking in the sights around Hamra and the seaside area of Raouche, it became clear that there are some things in Beirut that you are not allowed to photograph. I discovered this when a large man in a uniform ran at me, after I took a photo of an abandoned Ottoman-style building. The reason behind his agitation - some buildings were formerly military or political installations, or have sensitive headquarters or residences nearby. But as an obvious tourist with a guidebook tucked under one arm, I can’t have looked too threatening, as I was allowed to keep my photos.
The corniche area of Raouche is the most famous natural feature in Beirut, evidenced by the many tourists, cafes perched on the cliffs, and dare-devil sightseers climbing over the protective railings to pose on the edge of the precipice.
From here you can walk the extended waterfront. Many people soak up the morning rays here too, gulping back Arabic coffee sold by vendors along the boulevard.  
The beach is obviously a place to see and be seen, proven by the fact that most of the sun seekers were facing the road rather than the water.  
The waterfront runs almost to the infamous Green Line, previously dividing the Christian east and Muslim west. This area contrasts flashy new structures next to the bullet-riddled shells of old buildings, offering a stark reminder of the country’s political problems over the years.
After lunch, we drove into the Chouf Mountains, stopping off at the picturesque village of Deir Al-Qamar, the residence of Fakhreddine, the Druze Governor of Lebanon in the 17th Century.
Any road trip worth its salt in Lebanon must include stopping for a Kaak snack - a Lebanese flatbread coated in sesame seeds, sliced open while warm and slathered with delicious cream cheese. We all devoured this traditional treat at a roadside restaurant before travelling on to Tyre, close to the Israeli border.  
Tyre hosts a UNESCO World Heritage site, incorporating the Al-Bass archaeological site, which contains a Roman necropolis, with overgrown and crumbling tombs.
The colonnaded road with its triumphal arch prompts you to imagine the clatter of horse hooves on the cobblestones. The huge hippodrome, once used for chariot races, is supposedly the largest in the world seating 20,000 spectators.  
Back in Beirut, the perfectly reconstructed Downtown area, centred around Place d’Etoil, is ‘the’ place to hang in the evenings.
The area is slightly too perfect, yet beautiful with the soft yellow night lighting and constant buzz from diners.
A stroll in the area allows you to take in the stunning Mohammad al-Amin mosque near Martyr’s Square.
A late night in the Bohemian quarter of Gemmayze in the old Ashrafieh district is also a must.  We started at Hickey’s, supposedly an Irish bar. It’s a dark and trendy spot. Our vote for best named bar however, goes to ‘Rehab’ across the road. Further on and hidden up too many stairs is a music bar called Gem, where we hit the tiles until the early hours.
If you have some time and are looking for a short break, then Lebanon is well worth a visit. From exploring, nature and history to culture and clubbing - it has something for everyone.
I do recommend hooking up with Lebanese friends whenever possible though - they are the only people crazy enough to drive there.